Iceland

I wanted to share some pictures I took from my most intriguing trip to Iceland.

I came back a week ago, the volcano was crumping into action again, and like an angry old dragon, was blowing hot ash, steam and smoke all over the rocky land.

And rocky it was. Oh Floki, you deceptive Viking you. It may have been a harsh winter when you arrived, though perhaps calling it Rockland would have been a little more appropropriate. Being a hotspot for geological activity and sitting on the Mid-Atlantic ridge, Iceland literally rose from the sea from past volcanic activity, thus rendering it treeless (I didn't quite believe it, though it's true- there are no natural trees).

Reykjavik is situated on a fishing harbour, essentially the lifeline of most Icelanders. Cool air comes sweeping off the sea and the snow-capped mountains surrounding it, sending this Australian shivering whilst traising up and down the narrow streets.

I imagined there to be small bistros serving traditional food, i'd have even settled for fish stew. Instead, there were mainly influences from the American GI's that were here during and after WW2, the diners selling hamburgers, steak and beer. The supermarkets sold Bisquick and squirty cheese. The food was a major bummer, though I did have 'cheap' in mind.

I did dine (I use that term loosley) at sægreifinn, which came recommended through the Reykjavik Grapevine (pick up this free English-speaking rag - it's an absolute must for Icelandic navigation! It's also probably the coolest streetpress, I've ever read). It stated it had weird Icelanic food, for which I was down for. However, asking to see the menu, the waitress pointed at the fridge full of fish kebabs and replied 'That is the menu'. I bypassed the red, dense whale meat and went for the saltfish. It was delicious, but one fish kebab does not make a meal. I was still quite hungry after my meal, so grabbed a cheeseburger down the street afterwards.

The city iself serves three-fifths of the Icelandic population, though it doesn't feel like it. The city centre is extremely small, with the outer surburbs sprawled amongst the rocky terrain. Like any small place, I can imagine Reykjavik to be quite dull if you've lived there all your life. The same people, same places to go. I guess that's why we explore in the end.

Iceland though, is not the sort of place you go to for its cities. Of course, there is the raging volcano that I mention above, that has been huffing and puffing since Apr 20th. And wasn't I the lucky one to have this thrust upon me after I had booked my ticket? I booked a jeep trip to the outer surrounds, getting between 8-10kms away from the erupting Eyjafjallajökull. Eight hours later, I was back at the hostel, dusty, tired and proud to say that I have seen a volcano erupt.

One thing that I can say for Icelanders- they know how to make coffee. I felt like I was home! Having lived in Europe now for the better part of 4 years, good coffee was something I have had to seek out. England, France, Spain, Germany et al all bomb in coffee making skills. They do, I've said it. However, the small, isolated island of Iceland, well it's like they'd all taken a trip to Lygon St Melbourne and received barista training. It was such a lovely suprise, that I ended up drinking far more coffee than I should have. I couldn't help it, their cafes were from the kingdom of cool.

So below are a small selection of pictures from my trip. Enjoy.

The view from the bus, driving back from the Blue Lagoon. This was pretty much the view from anywhere.

This was one of many dead casts within the church, Hallgrimskirkja. It sort of intrigued me, then concerned me as to why these faces were there. There was no explanation, nor were the faces marked in any way. And then I came across this smiling fellow. He looked happy. And then, so was I.

I went to the Reykjavik Flea Markets (every Sat. and Sun), and the most interesting thing was this dried, cured shark meat they were flogging. This is an Icelandic delicacy. It really smelt terrible, though I bought a small sample to try. I just couldn't in the end, and threw it in the bin. A welcome smell for the people I shared a room with.

My double latte. Interestingly, they only half filled it with milk, and sort of looked at me funny when I said fill it up. Hardcore, those Icelanders.

How to keep warm in Iceland- wear an eyeless fox. Creepy.