I'll be damned if there will be yet another resurgence of prairie-'chic' again. After French designer Sophie Theallet's collection, it seems there may just be a few Calamity Jane's on the way. I say: Just stop! It's not flattering, not elegant, not endearing, not sophisticated. The frills, those hideous Ugg's (except worn in the comfort of your own home, away from prying eyes), the leather trim, urgh!
Marc by Marc Jacobs was a throwback to both an opshop crammed with tartan and any old high street shop, say French Connection. I adore him and his SpongeBob Squarepants arms though I felt this collection was, how do I say this politely...lazy.
Again with the furry boots? How anyone spends money on this fashion roadkill is beyond me. Frilled, tartan dresses, come on! Over sized, harem-esqe pants and colourful pullovers? A bit early nineties wouldn't you say? There is no need to go back where it all started Marc- just sayin'.He is of course saved by lovely accessories, such as gorgeous little animal/fruit brooches and lovely, elegant hats. Hey, we all know that an outfit can be saved by adding such a thing, so kudos to you Marc by not completely falling off the perch.
It does seem to be the week of the waist and Derek Lam's collection did not falter this trend. Although he seemed to kill one little furry animal per catwalk piece, he did take me time travelling to my favourite decade- the 30s. High-waisted pants, tailored blazers, structured coats, elbow length gloves...oh my. Ladylike glamour- bring on cocktail hour!
From the 30s to the 60s, it was all about Mod sophistication over at La 3.1 Phillip Lim Casa. Although some of the models looked deathly (maybe a case of NYFW syndrome- too much champagne and coke), all eyes were on their threads anyway, so we're just going with Phil's flow on that one. Peacoats, (brown) opaques, mini hemlines, hip skimming trousers with torso lengthening shirts, bohemian dresses- yep, this was one groovy collection fit that was appropriate enough for a Queen.
Calling all those with a business nose- did you catch Michael Kors? Why? Cause you'll be wearing him all Autumn/Fall, so pay attention!
Boy, did he play the real life. Let's go black and/or neutral, with a waist-cinching belt, some lovely yet demure (black) heels, and throw on a short sleeved, buttoned coat (trend alert!). Are we all ready for our corporate luncheon? Our development meeting? Perhaps a funeral? Wait! I want to have some fun, can I come too? Sure, just for you, Kors threw in a couple of bright (read: fluro) lime-yellow and orange items including this fox fur coat.
Don't get me wrong, Kors' collection is not dull, just played down, sophisticated, save for the thigh high splits running up 50% of his work. I guess it's his rebellion against the boardroom, and a lovely contradiction at that (if you've got the pins to pull it off).
Now for some pretty. Well, my type of pretty which means eclectic. Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch started his collection sending models down in colourful, cerise-print dresses and headscarves. So flirty, so not Autumn! But then, the rain came down and Winter approached- black emerged and the thigh-high leather boots came a-calling. Oh well, we'll just focus on the start of what were some smiley catwalk moments.
OK, so critics raved about Proenza Schouler. Let's just say I won't go into too much detail here as I found the collection quite unoriginal. I'm not saying that every collection has to have a new invention or interpretation, though I do enjoy a new colour, a new cut. Instead, what we had here was what we've already seen. Tweed shorts with opaques underneath and a peacoat. Chanel-inspired breast cupping dresses. Lengthy, zippered, high necked dresses (which look rather sack-y to me). Sure cute, though DONE.
No comments:
Post a Comment